Why your sweater doesn’t fit…and what to do about it

You picked a sweater pattern. You bought the yarn. You followed every direction exactly.

But when you put it on… something was off.

• Maybe it's too tight in the armholes
• Maybe the shoulders hang off your actual shoulder
• Maybe it looked saggy and a little sloppy

And you wonder: What did I do wrong? I followed the pattern exactly.  Is it my gauge???

First, let me say, it's probably not your gauge. I mean, it could be, but 9 times out of 10, incorrect gauge is NOT the problem with sweaters that don't fit. 

There are three reasons

The numbers on the pattern don’t know your body

Here’s how we’re told to choose a sweater size:

1. Measure your bust.  
   
2. Find the closest match in the pattern
3. cast on and follow the pattern exactly

It’s totally logical—and totally misleading.

Why? Because the bust measurement is just one line on a whole schematic. And your body isn’t just a bust measurement. You’re a beautiful, complex shape with unique proportions, preferences, and a personal style.

Great fitting sweaters start long before you pick up your needles.

Here are some of the top problems I’ve seen 

Problem #1: Choosing a size based only on bust measurement

Let’s say your full bust is 40”.

You see that the 40” size is for you. But… is it?

If you like your sweaters roomy, that 40” might feel too snug.

If you like them close, it might hang like a sack.

Bust is important—but it’s not the whole story.

You have to look beyond the number and understand how that number behaves in a garment.

Problem #2: You haven’t defined your preferred ease

Ease is one of the most important—and misunderstood—elements of sweater fit.

It’s simply the difference between your body measurement and the finished garment measurement. 

• Positive ease = garment is larger than the body
• Zero ease = garment is the same size as the body
• Negative ease =  garment is smaller than the body

 Most knitters, when they hear these definitions think

• Positive ease = loose and flowing
• Zero ease = tight and hugging the body
• Negative ease =  like an overstuffed sausage casing

But this is so not true. We need different amounts of ease at various places in our sweaters. Additionally, ease preference is very personal. 

Two people with the same measurements might want completely different fits—and that’s okay. The magic happens when you know what you like and choose a size that gives you that feeling.

#3: You didn’t account for construction style

Not all sweaters are built the same. And the way a sweater is constructed affects how ease shows up in the finished garment.  The same bust size can feel totally different depending on how the sweater is built.

For example, dropped shoulder sweaters need a lot more ease because the width of the body forms a portion of the sleeve length. If you don't give yourself enough ease, the armholes will be too tight. They're intended to hit half way down your upper arm, not around your armpit and shoulder.  

Set in sleeve sweaters are designed to fit more closely in the shoulder area and can be worn with less ease.  With this style of construction, you can have as much ease as you want in the body, but you really don't want a lot around the shoulders. 

Here's a bonus one

Problem #4: You didn’t really look at the schematic

Let’s be honest. A lot of knitters skip the schematic--or they glance at it and move on, but there's gold in those little drawings. They're your road map for the sweater. 

A good schematic tells the whole story.

It shows you how the garment is shaped, where it’s narrow, where it’s wide, and how long it is. Just a few minutes to review it will give you powerful insight.

What to look at:

• What is the construction style
• overall sweater shape (often hard to tell from the model photo)
• Body length
• Sleeve length and width (are they generous or tailored?)
• Armhole depth (this is a big one, because if it's to shallow, you'll never wear it)

The schematic is literally the designer pulling back the curtain.  Pay attention!

If this resonates with you, let's talk.  

I’m looking for knitters who’ve had one (or many!) sweaters that didn’t fit or just didn't turn out the way they expected, and are ready to finally get clarity.

Here’s what I’m offering:

💬 A free 20-minute Zoom call

We'll talk about one of your past or current sweater projects

You'll share with me your frustrations about sweater knitting, and I'll answer a burning question you have on the topic.

Interested? Grab a time on my Calendar here

Warmly,

Ellen