How to Choose the Right Size for Dropped Shoulder Sweaters

Sweater fit is super important, whether a sweater is fitted or not. A set-in sleeve sweater has a very precise fit around the armholes and shoulders, so it’s easy to see when the fit is not right. A dropped shoulder sweater has a good bit of ease, so the shoulder area and armholes fit are not so precise, but it should still fit the wearer. The problem is that each wearer can have a different preference on how they like boxy sweaters to fit. So let’s talk about it.

Understanding the Fit of Dropped Shoulder Sweaters

In this style, the shoulders of the sweater continue well beyond your shoulders and drop down onto the upper arm forming the top of the sleeve. The armhole is not at your actual armhole, but at least 2 and often as much as 5 or more inches along your upper arm toward your bicep.

The overall feel of a dropped shoulder sweater is relaxed and oversized with a minimum of 6 and up to 20 or more inches of positive ease.

Common Mistakes When Choosing a Size

When looking at a pattern and trying to choose a size, this amount of ease can lure us into one of two very bad decisions:

• Choosing a size that’s too big for our body
• Choosing a size that’s too small for our body

The Problem with Choosing a Size That's Too Big

Early patterns took all of the decision making out of our hands and simply said, if your bust is between 32”-34”, knit this size, if it's between 36”-38”, knit this next size, and so forth. Perhaps there was a schematic that told you how big each size of the finished sweater would be, sometimes not. You just had to trust the designer.

Now, designers often tell you how big the finished sweater will be and how much ease they recommend. So, for instance, the various sizes might have finished measurements of 40”, 44”, 48” etc. and they would tell you that the garment is meant to be worn with 6”-8” of positive ease.

The logical thing then would be to measure your full bust, add 6 or 8 inches, and choose the size with a finished bust measurement closest to that number. Right?

Maybe.

Here’s the problem: if you are very busty, choosing a size in this way will leave you with a sweater that is much too large. Here’s what you do instead: Measure across your back, under your arms, and up over the curve of your bustline. This is your high bust, or upper bust measurement. If you are larger than a B-cup, your high bust measurement is a much better indication of your overall size than your full bust. Use this measurement to choose what size to knit. An easy rule of thumb is to add the recommended ease to your high bust measurement and choose the size with the finished measurement closest to that number.

The Problem with Choosing a Size That's Too Small

Some knitters look at those big finished bust numbers and decide that the size that’s closest to their full bust is plenty big enough. What they haven’t considered is that the extra width in the body is what forms the sleeve cap. Without adequate ease, their finished sweater’s armhole will be much higher and closer to their body than the design intended. In this situation, the armhole sits more vertically and encompasses a portion of the shoulder which the pattern did not account for. The result is an armhole that’s too tight, sleeves that are too short, and a disappointed knitter with a sweater she never wears because it’s uncomfortable.

You can avoid this situation by choosing the size with the finished measurement closest to your high bust measurement plus the recommended ease.

Personal Fit Preference and Final Thoughts

Fit preference is very personal, and the amount of ease you like in any sweater is up to you. It’s always a good idea to double check your size choice by going to your wardrobe and measuring a garment with the same construction that fits you the way you like. Then choose the size that’s closest to that measurement.

Share Your Experience

I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments. Tell me about any experience you’ve had with size choice, or if there are questions you’d like me to address.

Warmly,
Ellen