Choosing the Right Size for Set-In Sleeve Pullovers

Choosing a size in a set-in sleeve pullover is often a very different process than choosing a size for other styles of sweaters.

We have talked about choosing a size for a set-in sleeve cardigan and for a dropped shoulder sweater, but I think this style of sweater offers the greatest challenge when it comes to choosing a size.

Why Is It Challenging?

Negative ease

Negative ease means that the garment is smaller than your body and stretches across your body in certain places. Those places could be your bust, but it might also be your tummy or hips.

Most knitters, especially those with a curvy build, shy away at the concept of negative ease. No one wants to look like they’ve been poured into their clothing, after all, but that’s different. There is a comfortable and attractive amount of negative ease, and you’re probably already wearing clothes with substantial negative ease.

The Flexibility of Pullovers

You have lots of ease options with pullovers. Unlike cardigans that you don’t want to have gaping open at the bust and straining against the buttons, a pullover looks just fine stretched across your bust.

In fact, if you’re busty, negative ease makes sweaters much more flattering. Without negative ease, the fabric hangs straight down from your bust points. There’s no indication that your body tapers in toward your waistline, so these garments give the impression that your entire body is as big around as it is at your bust, making you look bigger than you are.

How Much Negative Ease Is Right?

First, let me say that I am not here to suggest that you should ever wear clothes that are too tight or that make you feel uncomfortable. No one wants to feel constricted or constrained by their clothing, and there are definitely places where you don’t want negative ease—like your armholes.

My suggestion for choosing a size with an appropriate amount of negative ease is going to be choosing based on your high bust measurement, which is across your back, up under your armpits, and across your chest up above your breast tissue. This measurement is the most accurate indication of your overall body size, and if you choose your size based on this measurement your set-in sleeve pullover will fit your shoulders properly and have a reasonable amount of negative ease.

Numbers like 4” or 6” of negative ease can be terrifying to a busty knitter, so you will want to turn to your existing wardrobe to validate this choice.

Validating Your Size Choice

Look at a set-in sleeve sweater you already own (or one in a store) that fits you the way you like it. Lay the sweater down and measure across the sweater at the full bust, just below the armholes, and multiply that number by 2. That is the full bust measurement of your sweater, and the sweater size you should probably be knitting.

Share Your Experience

I hope this helps, and I would love for you to share in the comments your full bust and the size of the set-in sleeve sweaters that fit you the way you like them. Also, please feel free to post any questions you may have about this topic.

Warmly,

Ellen