Why Picked-Up Borders Are Essential for Perfect Armholes in Knitting

I have a beautiful tank that I knit a long time ago. It fits great, but over the years, I have noticed that the armhole seems to be deeper than I remember. I am certain that when I first made it, my bra did not peek out that the side under my arm.  But now it does.  

I haven’t changed sizes (or bra styles, particularly) so something must have happened to the armhole.  

I had pulled this garment out as an example of an applied I-cord for my Rowan Connect class last weekend, but as I was going over the armhole finishing, I realized that it wasn’t an applied I-cord at all - it was a clever lookalike technique that gave the appearance of an I cord but was actually knit right along with the fabric. 

And that is why my armhole had stretched out.  

In my class, I showed this technique but warned that it did not serve one of the key purposes of borders, which is to provide structure to open edges of our garments.  Why not? Because it was not picked up, but rather worked alongside the fabric.  

Picked up borders give important structural integrity to edges whether you need them to counteract stockinette curl or not.  Seed stitch, garter, and ribbing can all benefit from a border to stabilize open edges (and give them a polished look.)

Picked up borders give you a way to smooth messy selvages, a place to weave in yarn ends, and the ability to tighten up a too loose opening as well. In the Susan Shell class, several students felt that their armhole was too deep until they picked up and worked the edging.  

Is your neckline a little too daring for your taste? Pickup around it and knit a little border. It’s not so much the width of the border, but the fact that the picking up brings the neckline stitches together and keeps them in check.   

Adding a picked-up border might seem like a small detail, but it can make all the difference in the longevity and fit of your handknits. Think of it as giving your garments a little extra backbone to stand up to wear and time. Whether you’re finishing an armhole, a neckline, or any open edge, picking up stitches provides that touch of structure to keep everything in place, beautifully. So, next time you’re knitting, don’t skip the pickup – your sweaters will thank you!